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This is the only developer I have experience with, and I chose it for the price and relative ease of use, combined with the eco (when diluted) element. While trying to learn photography, the wait and costs of sending film off to highlight mistakes was too vexing by far and the solution from this concentrate has brought me weeks of pleasure and savings while allowing me to learn more as I go along.
Zone Imaging 510 Pyro is a great choice of black and white developer for the environmentally conscious photographer. It produces rich blacks and nice sharp images. It's also a staining developer which helps with that sharpness when you scan your film.
I've developed 3 films so far using this and I am really happy with how they turned out.
Really easy to use, comes with a syringe so you can extract the exact amount from the bottle (1ml needed per 100ml water).
Combined with the Eco Fixer you don't need anything else to develop B&W so it saves on stopbath costs too.
As someone that develops sporadically, I love that this can be stored for a long time, especially after opening. It was surprisingly goopy, but I think that just made it easier to handle without making a mess. Used it on some 120 200 Fomapan and 35 400 Fomapan, and I'm really happy with the results.
I recently developed a roll of Rollei RPX25 in 510 Pyro and the development is just perfect. It will be my go to developer for this film from now on!
Love this developer, tiny, lasts ages, gives really great results, doesn't need a chemical stop.
Pyro has been a long time favourite of mine since my student days in the 90s. Initially, I started using it because I'd read that Edward Weston and Ansel Adams used it. 510 is a lot more convenient than the PMK formula I used back then and gives beautifully detailed, tonally rich negatives on every film I've tried so far. I've hit it with everything from Rollei Infrared to HP5 +, to Delta 3200 and basically 510 is going to become my go to developer. There are others I love for their particular qualities, such as Rodinal and DDX, but I can't recommend this one highly enough. Development times are not the shortest, but be patient, read the instructions and go gently. And it's economical too!
The first time I used this developer I understood what everyone was talking about when they said it was messy. The second time I used it there was no mess at all - just great results. I have only used it with 1 to 100 dilution with standard agitation, but the image quality has been impressive, though I think the development times on the website are a little short and give slightly thin negatives.
I used rodinal before this as it has the shelf life of uranium and is very economical but I was blown away by the fine grain, shadow detail and sharpness of 510 pyro. For a pretty new (especially compared to rodinal!) developer there are already tons of tested times on the data sheet and I’ve always got brilliant results. I use standard ilford agitation times but I’m keen to try semi stand development with panf 50 soon.
As the description says you need to use an alkaline fixer and I’d recommend zone imaging eco fix.
I've just started developing at home, and 510 Pyro is my first developer. It's genuinely blown me away with it's ease of use, sharpness, and lack of grain. I do love grain, so may switch to using this developer for higher speed films only, but need to experiment first. Regardless, results with this developer are much more impressive to me than results I've had with standard lab development.
510 Pyro is a developer that's new to me as I'm a life-long Ilford ID-11 fanboy. Advertised as a staining low grain developer that works extremely well on Tgrain films, I can confirm low ISO films (ISO 100 – 200) exhibit less grain compared to ID-11 at 1+1 and the negatives are a dark sepia in colour.
I've seen several Youtuber's claim it to be very good – one lady said that it makes the budget films seem like professional stock. Whereas I can't confirm that, I can confirm it does a great job on ORWO's UN54 giving a tonality and contrast you get with slightly over-developed film. You get the shadow detail but without the grain and blown out highlights.
Some people will find it a messy developer, and it is thick and gloopy for sure It'll stain your work surface (and your skin) and equipment almost as soon as you open the bottle, so you need to stay on top of keeping your work area free of drips and splashes. If you use a Paterson tank you'll probably need to use the little stirring rod as inverting the tank will soon get you into all sorts of trouble with the significant other!
Will I change to using this rather than my usual ID-11? No!
Do I have any regrets about spending 25 quid on a tiny little bottle of this stuff? No!
Will I buy more when my current supply is exhausted? Yes!
The biggie – would I recommend it? Yes, most certainly!
I've been using 510pyro for about 18 months now. I first used it as I was learning to develop at home. It is easy to use, simple to mix, directions a 10 year old could follow and outstanding support from the manufacturer. It's a developer that tames highlights and has brings a great tonal range that matters if your scanning your own film, like I do. It's safe for the environment non-toxic. The newer version is a lighter colour which makes it a tad bit easier when filling the syringe but the same great results. If you've ever thought about shooting Ilford HP5 at 1600 iso ...this is the developer to do that with! 510Pyro and Ilford Ortho 80 is a dream combination as well! An absolute must have for film shooters that develop at home!
I use this developer more that any other. If it can be developed with this, I use it. It has never failed for me. It is like treacle to use and can be messy. I use the same old cloth each time so no worries. A few of my friends have asked how my grain is so small, it is this developer. I have pushed agent shadow to 6400 and the grain was barely noticeable. I use it mainly at 1:100, but 1:200 has also given great results for me. Oh and I was using it without the syringe until now, with the syringe it is much less of an issue.
I shoot 110 film and, because of the tiny negatives, grain is always a thing - particularly when using faster film. Sometimes an issue, sometimes not, but always there.
I prefer single shot developers (Adonal and Caffenol CL) and was intrigued by the results I saw from 510-Pyro. I hadn't used a staining developer before, so bought a bottle in from AW. I used 510:Pyro at 1:100 @ 20'C with Ilford agitation as per instructions. Stopped with water and then fixed with a 10% solution of sodium thiosulphate (acidic fixers like Ilford Rapid Fix are not recommended). The sample pics were taken on 35mm HP5+ @ 800 in a Werra 1 as part of a test process (for the camera). The light wasn't great, but good enough. Now HP5+ doesn't have the finest of grains at box, so I was expecting it to be apparent at 800 - but no, the results were astonishingly good! Zoom into the chrome on the left hand side of the petrol tank and you can quite clearly see me taking the shot. My examples are as they came out of VueScan - no post-dev editing at all. I haven't had the opportunity to try out a 110 film yet, but things look promising.
Summary
Fine grained results - even with fast, pushed, film
Concentrate very stable - 6 year expiry at room temp
Single shot - predictable results and no storage issues
Good technical backup
I would very happily recommend 510-Pyro
Fantastic developer. Blown away by the result on 4x5. Used it with TF-5 Fixer.
Bought this a while ago when as a replacement for my dwindling supply of Rodinal and I have not been disappointed!
Stand development isn't for everyone, and it wasn't for me at first, but after giving this a proper go with some of the notoriously grainy and contrasty Foma 200, I was convinced!
It gives off beautifully sharp negatives, with great tonality and almost no grain with some films! Could not recommend it enough.
My favourite combinations have been this with Kodak Double-X (Cinestill BWXX), Ilford HP5 & Ilford FP4.
The attached images are from a roll of FP4.
