This film is great for huge enlargements and really hits the spot when it comes to fine grain. It seems that it is best used at 20 ISO rather than pulled to 12.

Only shot one roll of this film, but it was a great experience. Should have shot it on a brighter day because of the slow speed, but loved the results.

This was my 3rd roll of using this film and all shot using a tripod with an iso 16. Great detail and no problem with home development using the recommended developer. Highly recommended.

I feel I did this film a disservice. I used a Praktica Pentagon lens, which doesn't begin to show the true quality of this film. It takes a great deal of care to get your exposure right with this film, but I think I pretty much nailed it here.

good film but prefer others like fomapan at a similar price

Beware! This is great film, but ....
If you want the ultra fine detail that the blurb says that this film is capable of then you have to develop it in the special Adox developer. That means developing at home or sending it to a specialist lab and paying extra for them to develop it in Adox chemistry. If you do what I did and send it for normal black and white development then you will get negatives with an INSANE amount of contrast and zero shadow detail.
I was initially very disappointed but, on reflection, the results are quite pleasing. Deeeeep dark shadows like a hole in the world, some fine detail in a narrow band of mid-tones and burning white highlights. More like screen prints than conventional photographic images.
Not great as a beginner film.
I would definitely use this film again but would approach the shooting differently in order to make use of its unique character.

dont watch Paul's review or read any notes. so developed this is a very weak rodinal mix ( 1-100) i think or similar ... lets just say, you need to invent a new term for how much contrast this produces :D ... i also shot it at asa20 on a sunny day :D .. i think i had to scan it in at least 2 if not 3 stops lighter . and then do some lightroom and photoshoping dummery to get it to this point ... fyi i dont really care about digi scans i just use it to proof what i want to darkroom print .. i am all about the old school... shoot to print .. or shoot because i want to make a print .... :D .. dealth before digitall .. O it was also shot on a hassie 500cm using the 35mm roll hack so its a 2-1 panno 56mm*24 and the scan was around 130mb ... yupi cranked that puppy up to the red line ..

will use this by the bucket load once the wonderlanders get it in ... very impressed with it , think it has vast potential especially on the hassie and developed using the adox chems and scanned in on a nikon cool scan , think it will be cutting your eye balls through the screen... :D or more importantly darkroom printed !!!!

To get the best from this film does require more effort than a regular film such as the ever popular HP5 but those who venture into the world of CMS 20 will be rewarded with detail, sharpness and contrast like few other films.

On the downsides is the need for a special developer, Adotech IV, and one bottle is only good for 6 rolls! Other developers can be used but at the expense of tonality, expect black and white but not much between! Also the dynamic range is limited, in the range of 6 stops. So very high dynamic scenes are not suitable unless you intend to use this creatively such as for silhouettes. Those used to shooting slide film should have no problem with this.

So why bother? If you like punchy, attention grabbing images with biting sharpness and clarity then you are in the right place. On 35mm my 30 megapixel scanner can get no where near to resolving the detail available. Want 20 by 30 inch prints with no grain? For the right subject this film just makes sense. Detailed architecture or any subject with great texture. Probably not one for portraits unless of a characterful face long lived

I'm a bit of a fan of Adox films in general, but this one really blew me away.

OK, it's a low ISO film which is very contrasty. So you need to be very particular in how you meter. I shot it in my Olympus OM10 which only goes down to 25iso, but the lighting conditions meant I should have been metering at 12iso. So that meant every shot had to be manual - not a big issue, but if you don't like shooting manual then keep that in mind. Because you will want to take a couple of readings of your subject.

But if you get all that right then it is a stunning film. Loads of lovely contrast but not harshly so. There are excellent gradients between the tones and bags of detail.

Now, if only they did it in 120.......!!!!!!

This film is about as totally opposite to an all-rounder as you can get... though it is something truly different for the adventurous among you. The name of the game here is contrast control, i'd advise shooting at ISO 12 unless you really want that contrast to dominate the image.

My sample shot was taken on an overcast day (low-contrast) at ISO 20 and developed in half-strength caffenol-CL for double the usual time (that you would use for full-strength) to try and control the contrast. The recommended developer may be better but is expensive and has a short shelf life, so I would only purchase that if you were planning to shoot this a lot in a short period, which for the type of film this is... I don't see anyone doing with any regularity outside of one project perhaps.

As I alluded to in the title, the results will haunt your dreams of past films shot with it's near total lack of visible grain and incredibly fine detail and acutance.

Very nice film with a great tonal range. Perfect for landscapes - making sure you're shooting in the right conditions!
I shot the film on a overcast day, in most shots the ground looks great but the sky is a bit over exposed. Great beginner film though, perfect for helping learn cameras settings and location conditions.

Ridiculously cheap for what it is but check how much development will cost you before committing, I was charged £20 and if you're developing it yourself you'll either want to get the correct developer or do a lot of research/testing.
I shot most of the roll hand-held at box speed on a sunny day, with some additional shots indoors to test reciprocity failure. To shoot hand-held I used my fastest lens (Minolta AF 50mm/1.4) and kept the aperture between f/2 and f/4 at all times.
The results are excellent when you get it right and grain is undetectable when scanned at 7200dpi on a plustek 8100, with clear detail down to pixel level. Yes, you could probably get better results with a medium format camera but for 35mm there's nothing that I can think of that comes close to the resolution you can achieve with this film. To provide as best an illustration I have included a crop off the sign on the post box in the photos below where it has resolved all of the lettering at a distance of roughly 3m

Brilliant film, has a really fine grain and the photos come out with great gloomy contrast. Will definitely be using it again although my local development lab had trouble scanning the film.

Such a unique and extraordinary looking film stock, with incredible detail, sharpness and dynamic range. With such a low iso film it makes you slow down the process even more, and really concentrate on the composition - also luckily the sun was out at this Glastonbury in 2019. Definitely one of my favourite b&w film stocks to shoot, and highly recommend trying one of the incredible ADOX films, especially if you get chance to at a sunny summer festival. :'(

I perhaps did not get the best out of the film (Not the best camera or developer). However what I did get was some fantastic supper fine grain photos and contrast like no other! I developed it in Xtol Stock for 6.30.